Cozy Autumn Recipes – New York Times

Cozy Autumn Recipes – New York Times

It was 90 degrees the other day in Los Angeles, but I desperately wanted it to feel like fall! Specifically, the New York Fall setting for “Only Murders in the Building.” I’ve seen it lately, and I’m deeply charmed by Martin Shorts’ character – the catastrophically confident theater director in a long blue coat who survives almost exclusively on a diver.

I devised my own fall vibes. I put a large pot of mantequilla beans on to simmer and rummaged through the crisper to make a large clean-out-fridge gratin, packed with baby fennel, shiitake mushrooms, kohlrabi and the tender beans. It was a riff on chef Naomi Pomeroy’s fennel gratin with cheesy bechamel sauce and breadcrumbs toasted in butter with garlic, then tossed with chopped fennel leaves.

You might think of a gratin as a particular French dish – thinly sliced ​​potatoes toasted in cream – but neither the cream nor the potatoes are required. Almost anything can be gratinated if you put it under the broiler for a few minutes and let it bubble and brown. Beetroot and kale? Check. Chard and sweet corn? Definitely. turnip? Pastinak? Cabbage? Yes, yes, a thousand times, yes!

But back to that pot of beans. Add a bunch of washed, chopped rainbow chard and a blob of doenjang blossomed in hot oil, and you’ve got Eric Kim’s new recipe for one-pot beans and greens. Or mix the beans with sweet and savory glazed plantains and chopped scallions, and you have Yewande Komolafe’s dreamy breakfast dish (which also works for lunch and dinner).

If you stick to the idea of ​​a crispy gratin, as I often am, you can go with Ali Slagle’s cheesy white bean-tomato cake and add a lot of greens like kale or spinach to make it even more hearty. . You can definitely use boiled dried beans, but if you prefer to reach for a can, then the dish and all the cozy autumn moods that are guaranteed to follow are ready in just 15 minutes.

Go to the recipe.

If you do not already have some doenjang in the fridge that you need for Eric’s beans and veg, consider this as a push to go and buy some. The Korean soybean paste is an extraordinary, nuanced, super funky vegan ingredient that builds great flavors in stews and soups, and which also keeps in the fridge forever. Once you start cooking with it, you will not look back.

You can even try making your own, especially if you are interested in craft versions. Maangchi shares here his method, which requires keeping crushed soybeans warm and cozy and then fermenting the blocks for almost a year. It really makes you appreciate the time and skill that goes into producing this ingredient.

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