A solid start to the year: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for broth winter soups |  Food

A solid start to the year: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for broth winter soups | Food

There are not many certainties in life, but one thing I do know is that any recipe column released on January 1st will be full of ideas for soups and broth. We all want dishes that sustain and nourish the first day of a shiny, new year to warm our hands as much as our soul. And these are broth soups I would like right now, where the liquid element feels almost medicinal, and just what we need to light and prepare for the coming year.

Black-eyed peas with allspice and grilled onion salsa (picture above)

Here, the humble black-eyed pea is combined with heat, smoke and warming aromas and cooked low and slow, to leave you with a meal that is both nutritious and hearty with a seriously flavorful broth. You need to soak the beans overnight.

Soften Overnight
Prepare 20 min
Cook 1 hour 25 min
Serving 4

300 g black-eyed peas, soaked overnight in cold water to cover 3 cm and ½ teaspoon soda
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cinnamon sticks
4 fresh bay leaves
1
scottish hood chili, pierced with 2-3 small slits
10 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 teaspoons crushed allspice
1 liter of chicken stock
, or vegetable fund to make the dish vegan
Salt and black pepper
30 g crispy fried onions
, purchased or homemade, chopped very coarsely
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted and crushed coarsely in a mortar

For the grilled onion salsa
2 red onions, peeled and cut into 2 cm thick rounds (300 g)
60 ml of olive oil, plus extra for lubrication
250 g datterini (or cherry) tomatoes, ideally a mixture of red and yellow
4 tablespoons (15g) coarsely chopped parsley
2-3 lemons, 1 diced, for serving, the rest the juice, to get 2 tbsp

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan) / 390F / gas 6 and drain the soaked beans.

Put oil, cinnamon, bay leaves and chili in a medium-sized ovenproof cast iron pan that you have a lid for, and set it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the garlic and fry, stirring, for one minute until fragrant and lightly colored. Stir in allspice, cook for 20 seconds, then add beans, broth, 200 ml of water and one and a half teaspoons of salt and simmer. Cover the pan and then put it in the oven for 50 minutes until the beans are soft but still retain their shape. Remove the lid, turn up the heat to 220C (200C fan) / 425F / gas 7, and then bake without the lid for another 20 minutes, so that the liquid is reduced a little – it should still be quite broth-like.

Meanwhile, make the salsa. Put a well-greased frying pan on high heat. Carefully toss the onions in a bowl with one and a half tablespoons of oil and a pinch of salt and pepper, then grill in the hot pan for four minutes on each side until soft and finely charred. Pour into a medium bowl and separate the rings roughly. Turn the tomatoes with half a tablespoon of oil, and grill for five minutes, turning regularly until they are nicely charred and just starting to burst. Pour the tomatoes into the onion bowl, then add the parsley, lemon juice, the last two tablespoons of oil, a third of a teaspoon of salt and a good grinder of pepper, and carefully turn over.

In a small bowl, mix the fried onions and coriander seeds.

When the beans are ready, remove and discard the Scottish cap, bay leaves and cinnamon; if you like, chop half or all of the chili and add it to the salsa, but beware: it is much hot.

Divide the beans between four bowls and top each serving with a large spoonful of salsa, a sprinkle of the fried onion mixture and a slice of lemon.

Lamb noodles with cumin and sesame sprinkles

Yotam Ottolenghi's lamb noodles with cumin and sesame sprinkle.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s lamb noodles with cumin and sesame sprinkle.

This broth is very comforting in itself, without the noodles, and also works with plain rice instead. Make it up to a day ahead if you will, not least because it tastes even better the next day. Add a few slices of fresh red chili at the end if you would like some heat.

Prepare 20 min
Cook 2 hours 50 min
Serving 4

4 bonesd lamb necks (600 g)
2 shallots
, peeled and cut in half (100 g)
7 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon olive oil
30 g coriander leaves

1 cinnamon stick
20 g piece of fresh ginger
, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 star anise
½ tsp black peppercorns
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine
Salt
3 tablespoons soy sauce
4 teaspoons maple syrup
4 noodle nests
, cooked according to package directions
1 lime, cut into quarters

For cumin and sesame sprinkles
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
1½ tablespoons white sesame seeds, lightly roasted and lightly crushed
¼ tsp flag sea salt

Put a large sauté pan that you have a lid on on high heat. Place lamb, shallots and garlic on a tray and rub them all over with the oil. Fry the lamb in two rounds for three minutes on each side until it has a nice color, then set it aside. Add the shallots and garlic to the hot pan, char for two to three minutes, stirring often, then set aside with the lamb. If there are many dark, burnt pieces in the pan, wipe it off.

Turn down the heat to medium and pour one and a half liters of boiling water into the pan. Chop the hard stalks of the coriander and put these in the pot; save leaf tops for later. Put lamb, shallots and garlic back in the pan, add cinnamon, ginger, star anise, peppercorns, shaoxing wine and three-quarters teaspoon of salt, put lid on and simmer for two and a half hours until the lamb is about to fall apart. Foam off and discard any foam that comes to the top while it is cooking.

Meanwhile, put the cumin and sesame seeds in a mortar with sea salt in flakes, grind lightly until it is only partially broken up, and then pour into a small bowl.

Carefully lift the lamb out of the broth with a slotted spoon and place on a tray. Place a clean tea towel in a large fine-mesh sieve, place it over a large bowl and strain the broth; discard the solids. Wipe the sauté pan, pour in the sifted broth and keep warm over low heat.

Use a fork to divide the lamb into large pieces. Put a large sauté pan on medium-high heat, add the soy sauce and maple syrup and cook for three to five minutes until it bubbles and thickens. Return the lamb to the pan, turn gently to cover it all, and then remove from the heat.

Divide broth and cooked noodles between four bowls, and serve the lamb on top. Sprinkle over the coriander leaves, sprinkle a quarter teaspoon of the cumin mixture on top of each serving and serve with the rest in a small bowl next to it along with lime boats.

Hot and sour soup with savoy cabbage and bean sprouts

Yotam Ottolenghi's hot and sour soup with savoy cabbage and bean sprouts.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s hot and sour soup with savoy cabbage and bean sprouts.

Sometimes a light but nutritious soup is the only thing that will do, and this one ticks all the boxes without using quite a lot of ingredients. The cabbage and bean sprouts can be exchanged for the vegetables you have available – just keep the net weight roughly the same.

Prepare 10 min
Cook 40 min
Serving 2

1 tablespoon olive oil
4 spring onions
, trimmed, white and green parts cut into thin rounds and kept separate (70 g)
1 fresh macaroon lime leaf
1 tablespoon tomato paste

¼ tsp chili flakes
1 liter of vegetable stock
2½ tablespoons tamarind paste
2½ tablespoons soy sauce
10 g fresh ginger
, peeled and cut into thin slices
½ teaspoon palm sugar
Salt

100 g bean sprouts
100 g savoy cabbage leaves
, in thin slices
1 red chili, thin slices, seeds and seeds are discarded if you prefer less heat

Place a medium sauté pan that you have a lid on on medium-high heat. When hot, add olive oil, spring onion whites and lime leaves, sauté for two to three minutes until soft, then add the tomato puree and cook, stirring, for two more minutes until the oil turns red. make sure that the pasta does not get dark, otherwise the soup will become bitter.

Stir in chili flakes, broth, tamarind, soy sauce, ginger, palm sugar and one-eighth of a teaspoon of salt, cover and simmer. Turn down the heat to medium-low and let it cook for 25 minutes.

Put the bean sprouts in the pan and cook for another five minutes, just until soft.

Divide the shredded cabbage between four bowls, pour the hot soup over and serve topped with spring onion green and sliced ​​red chili.

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