4 incredibly easy winter recipes to make right now

4 incredibly easy winter recipes to make right now

At the beginning of the pandemic, I was a machine in the kitchen.

The possibility of staying home and making three (or more) meals a day excited me: There would be frittatas and bacon for breakfast. I put a bagel and lox spread with all the fixins for lunch. And dinner would typically involve three dishes: something in the style of a charcuterie table to start, followed by lamb chops served with grilled onions, sautéed broccolini and mashed potatoes with garlic. Plus dessert.

And I did not do the same things over and over again. There were many experiments – and a handful of flops. But the new thing about spending all that time over the stove disappeared several weeks after the lockdown. I hit a wall, so to speak. And I’m still in that headspace, a little more than a year later. (And I guess I’m not the only one.)

So what should a “regular” home cook like me do? Well, I reached out to Bryan Noury ​​- the head chef at Madre in Brooklyn, to seek out some much-needed inspiration. And he was gracious enough to commit. At the restaurant, Noury ​​specializes in modern (and unpretentious) American food that focuses on local ingredients, prepared simply – and everything hits the spot.

Here’s what he’s been up to in the kitchen lately – and you better believe that these dishes will soon become a staple in my home this winter.

The best fall-winter dishes to make right now


HOMEMADE RICOTTA

“We use ricotta everywhere in the restaurant. It is ubiquitous and suitable for so many dishes. I have always been a lover of dairy, but it was only on my trip to Rome in 2016 that I really understood the difference. Buying “The best milk and cream is the key to success. We only use Battenkill Valley milk and cream. And I have no doubt that your local markets will have exactly what you are looking for.” –Bryan Noury, Chef at Madre (Brooklyn, New York)

ingredients:

800 g whole milk

400 g heavy cream

30 g lemon juice or white wine vinegar

5 g kosher salt

Method: In a large thick-bottomed saucepan, heat milk and cream to 170-180 ° F over medium-high heat and melt the butter. Add salt and acid and stir so that the curd begins to separate from the whey. Take the milk and cream mixture off the heat and let the curd form. Strain through a colander lined with 5 layers of cheesecloth. (The longer the stem, the firmer the ricotta.) For our pasta filling, we look for a less wet and firmer product, so we hang overnight. For bruschetta or dessert, an hour is ample.

To serve: Cold with cinnamon and honey; heated on toast with roasted mushrooms and fried herbs; as ravioli filling with lemon.


VEGETABLE SOUP WITH APPLE SAUCE AND Maple Syrup

“When I come from New Hampshire, autumn has always had a special place in my heart. Leaf binoculars, flannel, everything in terms of pumpkin spice and apples! Braeburns, Granny Smiths, Honeycrisp, Fuji, Red Delicious, McIntosh. Frying 20 different kinds of apples is without a doubt one of the best scents you will ever find in a kitchen, perhaps only next to veal legs. We incorporate the apple puree into our vegetable soup, but it is stored beautifully. Easy to freeze, easy to make into jams and vinegar. Apple butter on cinnamon toast is above ground. All done with simple modifications that can achieve dramatic effects. The soup base is vegan and absolutely delicious. We use a myriad of fall vegetables that are always plentiful at this time of year. Rutabaga is the secret here. The peppery nature shines through in this recipe. White miso for depth of flavor, coconut milk and maple syrup. Without a doubt, this soup is bigger than the sum of its parts. Garnish with everything that catches your eye: pomegranate, roasted pumpkin seeds, etc. –Bryan Noury, Chef at Madre (Brooklyn, New York)

ingredients:

50 g of rapeseed oil

300 g Vidalia onion, peeled and cut in July

600 g rutabaga

400 g butternut squash

300 g carrots

400 g sweet potato

200 g Granny Smith apple

800 g vegetable stock

100 g coconut milk

100 g maple syrup

50 g white miso

Salt, to taste

Cayenne, to taste

Lime juice, to taste

Method: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and season with salt. Sweat until opaque. Add rutabaga, squash, carrots and sweet potato. Season with salt. Be careful not to brown them under any circumstances. Add vegetable stock and white miso, bring to a boil. Add half of the coconut milk and the green apple. Cook for about 25-30 minutes, or until all the vegetables are cooked through and tender. Add maple syrup and coconut milk. Puree in small portions: No more than one liter at a time. Strain through a mesh strainer.

Roasted apple puree:

2 lbs. apples (Braeburn, Honeycrisp, Mcintosh, Fiji, Granny Smith, Red Delicious)

Salt, to taste

Apple cider vinegar, few drops

Method: Preheat oven to 350 ° F. Lay apples in a single layer on a plate tray. Fry for 2 hours until the apples are browned and caramelized. Blend apple puree in Vitamix until completely smooth. The roasted apple puree is a secondary part of the soup – put it in the bottom of the bowl and the rest of the “soup” is poured on top.


PERFECT FRIED AMISH CHICKEN

“It’s not only one of my favorite things to eat, it’s easily one of my favorite things to cook. Using a few simple techniques and a little care, you can achieve an incredibly juicy and filling meal very cheaply. We salt store, air dry, smoke lightly and use an incredible trick to produce the most amazing color. Always a crowd pleaser and you can take it as far as you want, or just salt and toss in a ripper oven. Easy to clean up. “-Bryan Noury, Chef at Madre (Brooklyn, New York)

ingredients:

2 lemons

1 carrot

1 onion

3 bay leaves

Garlic, 1 head divided

Thyme, 1 bunch

* For 10% brine: mix 100g salt with 1000g (1L) water

Method: Make chicken for 12 hours. Remove chickens from brine. Wipe dry and leave in the fridge uncovered for 24 hours to achieve a very crispy skin. Fill the bird with ½ lemon and thyme sprig before frying. Bake in a 425 ° F oven for 15 minutes. Turn at the 15-minute mark. Reduce the temperature to 350 ° F and rise for another 15 minutes. Let rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting.


CLAFOUTIS

“Half pie, half cream, all delicious. Don’t let the name scare you. I first tasted the French classic at Thomas Henkelman’s in Greenwich, Connecticut. It’s easier than making a pie, I’ve been in love with its simplicity and delicacy. for almost 20 years. At Madre we use a variety of fruits. Cherries are traditional, but we go with strawberries and rhubarb or apricot in summer, pears and figs in autumn. It also works well with canned fruits and jars of high quality. “like peaches. We have gone so far as to omit all the sugar and replace duck fat and confit duck legs with a tasty version. So fire! The world is yours. Serve lukewarm or heated with a ball of chilled fresh ricotta!” –Bryan Noury, Chef at Madre (Brooklyn, New York)

ingredients:

170 g butter, room temperature

105 g powdered sugar, sifted

120 g almond flour, sifted

2 whole eggs

8 egg yolks

175 g sugar

15 g flour

15 g cornstarch

370 g whole milk

2 vanilla beans, scraped

1 pinch sugar

Method: Whisk the butter in an electric mixer equipped with a whisking accessory until creamy. Sift icing sugar and almond flour into the bowl and mix until blended. Add the whole egg and mix until homogeneous. Transfer the mixture and cool overnight. In a heatproof bowl, whisk egg yolks, pearl sugar, cornstarch, flour and a pinch of sugar to a smooth mass. Combine milk and vanilla in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. While whisking, gradually add milk to the whipped egg yolk mixture. Return egg yolks to the pan and cook until the pastry cream shows 170 ° F on an instant thermometer. Transfer confectionery cream to the container and cool completely.

To make: Spray a mold with Pam. In a large bowl with a rubber spatula, combine the pastry cream and almond dough until there are no streaks left. Pour over the fruit until 2/3 full.

To bake: Preheat oven to 350 ° F. Put the clafoutis in the oven and fry for about 15 minutes, or until the top is golden brown.

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